break out them knitting needles, cause you won’t be able to resist the fantastic sock patterns in toe-up socks for every body by wendy d. johnson. the 21 patterns in the book cover everything for sock knitting including the basics from cast-on, toe, heel, and bind-off options. you’ll also learn how to knit up your own socks with intricate lace, cables, and beautiful colorwork.  projects in the book are perfectly portable for your daily commute or an lazy afternoon. 

but are these patterns are super stylish? yes!  sock knitting is quite addictive, as they are quick projects that you can take virtually anywhere. in these tough economic times, why not start knitting up some handmade socks for all your family and friends to give during the holidays later this year?  patterns in this book span from child to adult, and hey, everyone loves a cozy pair of socks!

tiptoe through the tulips socks and sneaky argyle socks

fair isle socks and critter socks

sanquhar socks and bob and weave socks

 bouquet socks

golf tees can be quite useful in the garden.  in the spring, put tees in the gaps between bulbs so you can fill in the gaps in the fall.

when planting a new perennial, mark it with a tee so you know where it will emerge in the spring.

in the vegetable garden, mark the ends of rows with tees until your seedlings appear so you don’t overplant.

golf tees are inconspicuous to a casual garden admirer, but easy to see if you’re looking for them. they stay in place for several seasons if need be, and they’re easily color coded!

this stitch is worked from left to right and if it helps, you can draw two parallel lines on the fabric to follow as a guide.  first bring the needle up at 1, down at 2 and up at 3, making sure the thread is looped under the needle. pull through. repeat the next stitch to the right. fasten down the last loop by making a small stitch along the lower line.

blanket stitch – single

blanket stitch – double

work this in exactly the same way as single blanket stitch, only this time work a row of blanket stitches from left to right and then turn the work upside down and stitch another row of blanket stitches. position the ‘teeth’ of the stitch between the ‘teeth’ of the first line as shown in the picture.

blanket stitch – whipped

as with the backstitch, you can whip the lower edge with a contrasting color thread. start at the right side and bring your needle up through the fabric close to the first stitch, and then pass the needle from top to bottom through each of the lower threads without going through the fabric.

beautiful, irresistible and completely calorie-free, these felt treats are as easy to make as they are mouth-watering! detailed, easy to follow directions, as well as life-sized patterns for 106 different projects. felt and basic sewing skills are all that are required to whip up these luscious-looking confections. this book is an english translation of a japanese craft book.

projects include sponge cakes, petit fours, macaroons, almond florentines, chocolates, donuts, cookies, madeleines & more!

yep, the wizard is a great tool for scrapbooking, but there’s so much more you can do with it! 

using the big scalloped circles dies (nestabilities), cut out several flowers in two different sizes and colors, and then emboss them all for a more dimensional effect. once several flowers are cut and embossed, these cards are so simple to make: tear some blue paper to fit the card, and then randomly place the red and yellow flower shapes until you get an arrangement you like.  cut some green strips for stems, add a couple of leaves and black-and-white spotty centers, and the word “spring” to the top of the card, and you’re done!

these dies aren’t just for cutting paper…oh no, my friend.  they actually cut felt!  cut two of the larger hot pink flowers, one medium baby pink flower, and a small hot pink flower for the center. sew a pinback onto one of the largest flowers, and then sandwich the two together and stitch them with a blanket stitch.  stitch around the other two shapes, tack them to the back with a couple of stitches in an “x” pattern, and add some leaves, and you’ve got yourself a lovely little pin.  it’d also be cute as a brooch, or pinned to a hat or purse.

the dies also work great for cutting stencils. for this shirt, place four of the scalloped circles on some freezer paper and run them through the wizard. then take the three smaller dies, place them on the other side of the large flower, and run them back through the wizard to repeat the pattern. with the many different dies available from spellbinders, the design possibilities are endless!

spellbinders makes lots of great border dies as well. to make this tag, use the classic scallops border petites, (from the borderabilities line). cut the end of the tag, emboss it, and then use the die to stencil some color on the area. this edge really sets off the steampunk collage on the rest of the tag. this border die can be used to jazz up stationery and all sorts of other paper crafts.

not too bad for a hundred bucks!

the subtitle of this regional gardening bible is “the complete guide to organic gardening,” and steve solomon brings thirty years of experience and a constantly updated and rewritten body of work (this is the sixth edition!) to a compact and text-driven wealth of information.

chapters are neatly organized in big categories like soil, planning, and seeds.  most valuable section to be the final chapter, how to grow it, which has vegetable varieties arranged alphabetically and gives real, specific hands-on advice on each one.

this book feels more informative than inspiring in certain ways — there are very few illustrations and tables to break up the text. but whether you’re a visual learner or not, it’s a huge and helpful tool for the gardening in the western half of the pacific northwest, and some of the more general advice would probably be very helpful for organic gardeners in any part of the world.

rather than relying on supports to hold up slouches, depend on environmental tactics to keep your plants looking good and standing tall. things like soil, spacing, light, water, and pruning practices not only influence a plant’s leaf and flower production, but also have an impact on its overall stature. by being aware of how these elements play a role in your perennials’ growth and size, you’ll have a garden that can live virtually stake-free for years, and your plants will be happier for it because they will flourish in conditions that suit their needs.

a good balance of organic matter goes a long way

perennials generally thrive in well-drained soil with some organic matter. if your soil lacks these characteristics, it’s time to amend it.  this is sometimes easier said than done for gardeners with challenging soil like clay, but good soil goes a long way in the garden. clay soil is the kiss of death for many perennials because it is difficult for roots to pene­trate and holds too much water, causing roots to rot. likewise, sandy soil can lead to a peren­nial’s demise because it supplies few nutrients and holds little water.

plants grown in less-than-optimal soil often show signs of stress and are unable to support themselves. some perennials prefer clay or sandy soils, so as often as possible, match the right plant to your soil type. most perennials, however, like the good stuff, so amending your soil with organic matter, like composted cow manure, leaf mold, or compost, and a drainage-promoting component, like gravel or perlite, to a depth of at least 12 inches is the way to go. in extreme cases—if you’re gardening on rock or in hardpan, for instance—building a raised bed for perennial plantings is a good alternative. either way, top your plantings off with a thin layer of mulch at planting time to keep roots cool and moist and plants going strong.

unless a soil test tells you otherwise, take it easy on the fertilizer. overfeeding encourages leggy growth, and your plants will flop and require staking. if you do need to fertilize, choose a feed that is low in nitrogen (n) and potassium (k) because these elements are responsible for pushing lots of green growth and metabolizing the nutrients. higher phosphorus (p) is fine because it promotes desired blooms, fruit, and root growth.

precise placement equals peak performance

although it feeds our need for instant gratification, overplanting is another big no-no if you want your plants to perform and stay upright. planting perennials too close together leads to leggy growth as plants search for light, air, and room to grow. be sure to know your plants’ mature size at planting time and space them accordingly.

likewise, the wrong lighting conditions leave perennials out of whack. it may sound like a no-brainer, but you’d be surprised how many plants are grown in the wrong lighting. sun lovers mistakenly placed in too much shade become weak and elongated. before you site your perennials, take note of condition requirements on plant tags or in reference books. a little effort in research in the beginning will save you a lot of effort in staking later on.

finally, don’t forget to consider one of the most overlooked conditions in the garden: wind. this invisible force can wreak havoc on perennials, leaving them flat. avoid placing garden beds in the path of a wind alley. wind can also create microclimates, especially on slopes. if a slope faces south or west, summer winds will wring out the soil, leaving the location dry and hot. conversely, if the slope faces north or east, it will be sheltered from the summer winds, leaving it cool and moist for a longer period of time.

watering deeply and less frequently is best

how and when you water your plants is almost as important as watering them at all. it’s better to water plants deeply with greater spans between intervals rather than shallow and often. deep watering encourages healthy, far-reaching root growth  which stabilizes plants, gets them through dry spells, and promotes strong stems. it’s best to water in the morning hours so that plants have a chance to dry off before evening. wet leaves at night can lead to rampant disease problems.

avoid overwatering. in most cases, too much water causes more problems than lack of water, resulting in sloppy plants that can be top heavy, leggy, soft stemmed, or generally overgrown. plants are weakened and become more susceptible to problems like diseases and insects when they are stressed by factors such as too much water, sun, shade, or lack of air circulation. perennials generally need only an inch of water per week during the growing season.

seasonal pruning can also help get perennials back on their feet. late bloomers and historically floppy plants like asters, boltonias, and sedums can be maintained at a shorter height to avoid the need for staking. simply snip plants back by a third to a half in early summer for a shorter and bushier habit that will have little impact on the bloom. it’s also not a bad idea to stay on top of deadheading. this practice not only encourages more blooms but also promotes bushy growth, removes heavy, spent flowers, and redirects the plant’s energy back to healthy growth rather than to seed production.

occasionally dividing your perennials is another way to avoid the need for staking. if you notice halos (a hollowing out at the center of the perennial’s crown) or splaying, it’s time to divide your perennials. this common technique rejuvenates plants and straightens their posture. plants can be divided in early spring or early fall by lifting the crown with a garden fork, spade, or shovel. you then split the clump into two or three segments, replanting them with adequate spacing. depending on the species, perennials generally benefit from a division every three years or so.

following these strategies is a win-win situation!  your perennials will be happier and healthier, garden visitors get to enjoy a good show, and i you won’t have to spend your time staking.

when all else fails…

no matter what we do, some plants, such as big-flowering peonies or lilies, are going to need to be staked. thankfully, there are many staking options available. just remember—it is always better to put your staking system in place too early rather than too late, when your plant is already a gangly mess.

single stakes, such as bamboo, plastic-coated metal stakes, or even tall metal spirals, are a fairly inexpensive and easy option. often more functional than attractive, these stakes are best camouflaged behind your plants.

pea stakes can bring an attractive, rustic look to the garden. they’re simply forked twigs or branches stuck into the ground to prop up plants. this type of staking usually works best on plants that are no more than 2 feet tall.

cat’s cradles are a good way to stake clumping, multistemmed perennials, although they are time-consuming to build. a cat’s cradle is constructed by placing four or more stakes around the plant and then twine (green is less noticeable) is interwoven around the stakes several inches above the plant to create a grid. the string supports the stems as they grow through the grid.

grids are the modern-day cat’s cradles. these manufactured supports are often made of heavy-gauge wire that is coated with a green epoxy. like the cat’s cradle, plants are supported by this system as stems grow up through the grid. many gardeners like this method because mature plants disguise it well.

cages and tuteurs are a good choice for taller plants and vines. cages have a metal frame that supports the outside of the plant and is quite noticeable. tuteurs are used the same way only they are usually made of wood and have decorative appeal.

buttons come in all shapes, sizes, colors, designs, and textures. there are old and vintage buttons, brand new shiny buttons, novelty and fancy buttons, buttons made of varying materials and with different textures, big buttons and small buttons. in fact, there’s a minefield of opportunities out there for creative crafters willing to consider the potential of buttons.

having a simple button (or a collection of many!) on your projects helps provide another area of visual interest. something that would otherwise just be flat is gjven a new dimension, and buttons made of different fabrics, plastic, wood, or shell aid in giving it a new texture.

buttons are great when used on scrapbook pages, on handmade mini books and journals, on handmade cards, handmade bookmarks, in altered art projects or on home décor items. they can be used randomly to add a splash of color, or fit in with the color scheme of your project, or they can be used to create patterns, shapes or designs.

round buttons, for example, make an ideal flower center, or could be used to represent a letter o when you’re spelling out words or names. your imagination is the limit!

finding buttons

if you’re after a specific color or size of buttons for use in a particular project, then the best option may be to buy those particular buttons.  but if you don’t have an exact button type in mind, there are other ways of finding something suitable…and sometimes just having a fancy button generates a spark of an idea for a whole crafting project!

some places you may find buttons include:

• you may have odd buttons lurking around the house, as spare buttons are often provided when you buy clothing. put all the spares in one place so you can delve in when you need inspiration.
• look out for old or vintage buttons being sold at markets or fairs.
• odd buttons are often sold at charity shops and you can find something interesting.
• mixed packs of multicolored or textured buttons can be found in sewing and craft shops.
• if you’re getting rid of any old clothing, you could remove the buttons first!
• all sorts of old buttons can be found if you search through the listings of online auctions, or at  traditional auctions.

securing buttons onto your projects 

there are a variety of ways in which buttons can be safely secured onto your projects. if the buttons you’re using have one, two, three or four holes on the top – as traditional buttons do – you can always use them in the way they’re designed to be used and sew them on to your work. sewing in this way works well with paper, and can make a piece look unusual.

alternatively, if you’d like it to look like it was sewn on (but don’t want the hassle of stitching) you could always thread through a small piece of cotton into the holes, then tie them at the back. the button can then be stuck onto your work instead. all sorts of types of glue will work with buttons, although it does depend in part on what the individual item is made of. as a rough guide, sticky dots, glue sticks, 3d foam, silicone glue, and a good all purpose glue will all work with buttons.

relatively flat buttons work best with the sewing on or gluing methods, but if you have any that need to be secured via a small loop at the back, they can be used too. for example, you could secure them by using headpins (as traditionally used in jewelry making) or by threading them onto a piece of wire or thread and hanging them across your project.

buttons can bring projects to life and are great fun to use, so button up, buttercup!

woo hoo! 

from quilting arts comes a 148-page super special issue of stitch magazine! the theme is “sew original” and inside you’ll find exclusive patterns, projects for kids, current trends, and 37 fantastic sewing projects for spring. 

each project includes detailed step-by-step instructions and patterns.

check it out!

how can you tell if a mail-order plant catalog company is reputable? 

ask around. gardeners who have dealt with a particular firm will be able to tell you what they think and what their experience has been. the best way to judge a catalog is to look up in several different catalogs a plant you know well. you can learn a lot about companies by how much information they provide, how accurate it is, and how the prices compare.

as a rule of thumb, companies that sell products at a great discount do not offer high quality. the plants they send are often much smaller than you would expect. some upscale catalogs offer exclusive and hard-to-find seeds or plants for which you may want to pay extra money. but if what you are looking for is easy to find, why pay three times what the competition is asking?

how do you know what’s better to order—plant vs. seed? 

perennials are more often bought as plants. but when deciding whether to buy plants or seeds, quantity should influence your decision. if you need a large number of plants and are not in a hurry, it might be preferable to start from seed, even if it is more complex, or to buy a few plants to divide. however, some perennials—peonies, for instance—are not usually grown from seed because they do not come true from seed or take too long to reach blooming time. these you buy as plants either at a nursery or garden center (or by catalog if you cannot find them locally). it is up to you to make sure the plants you buy from a faraway place are hardy in your area.

for annuals, check how much time it takes for a plant to go from seed to bloom. at home and without specialized equipment, it is not usually easy to start tender annuals that have to grow for months before blooming, such as petunias or geraniums . hardier annuals such as nasturtiums or marigolds are much better seeded than bought as plants. they can be grown where you want them to bloom, their growth will not be checked by the shock of transplanting, and you will save money. for the same reason, biennials, such as foxgloves or canterbury bells are better started from seed.  there’s not much difference between bulbs bought locally or from catalogs.

what’s better to buy from…a catalog or a garden center? 

in general, it is preferable to buy plants locally: you can see what you are getting, the plant is normally much larger, and it doesn’t tend to suffer in transportation. buy from a catalog when what is being offered is not available locally.