start with scraps

carol e. loessel’s start with scraps is one of those books that will become many a crafter’s best friend. not only will it inspire you use up that stash of scrap fabric, but it’ll do so in a way that doesn’t just create more scraps! sweet.  many times projects that focus on using scraps will have you cut and piece your scraps together, and you end up creating more and more scraps.  grrrr.  arrrg.

this book teaches you how to make the most of your scraps by turning them into scrappy fabric that can be used in all of the gorgeous designs in the book. this creates only the minimum amount of waste, and gets those scraps out of the corners of your craft room and into the limelight!

there are 23 designs featured, from large quilts to table runners to coasters to pincushions. many of them are quilted but there are a few that either don’t require quilting or would be great for a beginner. there are scrappy parts inserted into traditional quilt designs, scrappy parts used as decorative accents to pieces, and designs that are made almost exclusively of scraps! wouldn’t the pincushion and scissor holder shown below be great to make and give as gifts?

heck yeah. 

and what a swell way to use (a nice way of saying get rid of) all those small scraps that you can’t bear to toss.

living in a very gated community

looking for a way to add some punch to a machine-sewn project? 

add a dash of color to with mettler’s multi-colored 100% cotton thread. 

this variegated silk-finished thread comes in many variations, from rust ombre (shown above) to dove gray. 

for big quilting endeavors or small sewing accessories, this fine thread is the perfect secret ingredient, and it’s fun to watch come off the spool, too!

hey battah battah battah, suh-wing battah

once you’ve pieced a beautiful patchwork top, the next step in the quilt making process requires batting (aka waddling).  batting is the stuff in the middle of your quilt – the layer between the front and the back that gives your quilt dimension and warmth. since quilts have this extra layer, they require quilting – that is, stitching—plain or fancy, by machine or by hand, to hold the layers together.  there are some choices when it comes to batting and here’s a little overview.

types of batting – cotton

100% cotton battings are soft, usually supple (drapable), and usually thin (low-loft) but it seems these days they can be found with many variations. 

cotton breathes – so your quilt will too.   

if not preshrunk, cotton tends to shrink. when you wash your quilt for the first time, the batting will shrink and create that wrinkly, quilty look that you either love or hate.   

since normal cotton fibers will tend to shift around in your quilt over time if not properly anchored with stitches, the batting manufacturers tell you that your quilting “lines” must be close together (usually 2-3” maximum) to prevent this bunching/shifting. there are manufacturers of new types of cotton batts that claim otherwise and say you can quilt them further apart (up to 8”.) i haven’t tried these out to know if they’re telling the truth.

cotton blends

there are many different types of batting that are part cotton and part synthetic (nylon, polyester, microfiber, polypropylene) in a variety of ratios – 87.5/12.5; 80/20; 50/50; etc.

because of the added synthetic fibers, these battings require less quilting to be stable.  this is a plus to people for whom quilting is not easy nor the favorite step in the process.

the lofts (thickness), weights/drapes, and shrinkage properties of these products vary and it may take some experimentation to find the one that suits your purposes.  there are some that i love and some that i can’t stand, but like pretty much everything—it’s personal preference.

the batting i have worked with most is the “warm & natural” brand cotton batting that is 87.5% cotton and 12.5% prlypropylene.  it’s easy to find at local craft stores and can be bought by the yard on big rolls.  look for a good sale or use your coupons to save big.

synthetics

synthetic battings (frequently polyester) also vary in thickness, although in general they run from medium to high loft (on the thicker side).

they are generally lighter in weight so they will produce a lighter quilt that doesn’t drape as well.

if you plan to tie your quilt instead of quilting it, it is often recommended that you use a synthetic batting because they require less anchoring than cotton battings.  high loft (very puffy) polyester batting is ok for tying, but not recommended for quilting (especially hand quilting).

some synthetic backigns (especially the high loft ones) have loose fibers that tend to work their way through the layers of your quilt (known as bearding). this is especially evident if your fabric is dark in color.  some synthetic battings come colored black for this reason.

to me, most synthetic battings that i’ve tried are more slippery than cotton battings, so they tend to shift around more as you are uilting.  if you use them, try to baste more heavily to prevent some of the unwanted shifting.

because of its flammability, i don’t recommend using polyester batting (or fabric, for that matter) for quilts that people (babies and children, particularly) will sleep under.

wool/silk

i have not worked with wool or silk bats, so i have no direct knowledge to share, but i know they are out there and are more expensive, as you might have guessed.

cotton flannel

flannel makes an interesting, very thin batting for quilted projects like bedspreads or tablecloths.  since it is so thin, the quilt design doesn’t stand out, so don’t waste your time doing anything fancy.

other (that catchall category)

some people use fleece for their battings.  i find it too stretchy and slippery to use and definitely too thick for the typical weather here in southern california. 

fusible battings can be ironed to your quilt top, eliminating the need for basting. 

100% cotton battings are available now in organic varieties if you’re into that sort of thing.

you can do as the pioneers and struggling quiltmakers of times past have done and use whatever extra “stuff” you have as batting.  if you piece things (old washcloths, dishtowels, etc.) to use in your quilt, you’ll have to live with the bunching/creasing/irregularity of the innards, but that’s part of the charm of these “make do” quilts. ..and definitely in line with the history of quiltmaking!

working with batting

batting can be bought folded or rolled in packages or by the yard.

i prefer to buy batting by the yard because i can cut off just what i need for each quilt and have less waste.

if in packages, batting is generally sold in standard bed-sized quantities – crib, twin, full, queen, king. you will need your batting to be a couple inches bigger than your quilt top on all sides.

some battings can be pre-washed to eliminate shrinkage. check your manufacturer’s recommendations. some people like flat quilts with no wrinkles and puckers.  

you can drape or lay your batting flat overnight to let the fold/wrinkles relax before using it. some battings can be thrown in the clothes dryer and fluffed before use to remove wrinkles. some battings can even be ironed carefully.

check the manufacturer’s information to see if your batting has a top/bottom side or grain lines (direction the fibers run). for less possibility of distortion, you should make your batting’s grain lines run in the same direction as your backing fabric’s grain line.

remember to check the quilting requirements for the batting you will use and plan your quilting design accordingly. if you exceed the recommended maximum distance between quilting lines your batting could shift/bunch/tear inside your quilt over time.

you can piece large scraps of batting together as a way to re-use all those cut off ends. this is a nice option for scrap quilts.

cathedral windows

when life gives you scraps, it’s time for a cathedral windows quilt.  a fairly easy and beautiful project that goes quickly if you do it in an assembly-line fashion.  here’s how:

materials needed:

1 yard muslin

coordinating thread for muslin

#10 sharps needle

pins

17  2½” square scrap fabrics (use from 4 to 17 different patterns/solids)

scissors

bone folder/something sharp to make a crease

ruler

rotary cutter

self-healing mat

instructions: 

1. cut muslin into 12  9½” squares.  turn under ¼” seam on all four sides of each square, and press with a steam iron.  do not pin or stitch! set aside. 

2. with seams facing up, fold a corner diagonally to make a triangle.  press at the center of the long side of triangle to crease.  open, repeat with opposite corner and crease again. 

3. open the square, and fold each corner in to the center of the creased “x”.  press with iron.  fold each corner to center again, and press.  square will now be 4 ½”.  repeat for each muslin square. 

4. open this twice-folded square one time to reveal the first folding.  with coordinating thread, cross stitch each triangle tip together to secure (do not cut thread).  re-fold again, and cross stitch outer triangle tips to secure.  cut thread.  you now have a prepared muslin square!  repeat for each muslin square. 

connecting the prepared muslin squares:

with folded sides facing each other, whip stitch two prepared squares together along one side. (tight, but not too tight!).  open and press.  you now have a 2-piece muslin unit!  repeat to make 2-piece muslin units from remaining prepared muslin squares.

connecting the muslin units:

take two 2-piece muslin units (with folded sides facing each other), and whip stitch these units together, creating a 4-piece 9″ completed square.  press with iron.  repeat until all of your muslin squares are pieced into 4-piece units. 

creating the windows:

1. cut and press scrap fabrics into 17  2½” squares.  do not turn under seams.

2. on one 4-piece unit, place a 2½” scrap onto each of the joined seams.  pin scraps in place.

3. carefully fold back muslin over scrap (fold slightly at the ends, wider in the middle) and  stitch in place using coordinating thread.  (do not stitch all the way through the muslin unit; only stitch the scrap to the folded edge.)  use 2-3 tacking stitches to hold ends securely.  repeat on each side of the scrap to form a “window”.

4. whip stitch the 4-piece units together as you go, and add more windows to complete your quilt!