quit needling me!

need a place to store your needles when taking a needle project with you?  why not make a quick and easy needle book!

materials needed:

8½”×11″ piece of wool felt
small piece of contrasting patterned fabric
sewing machine
pinking shears
scissors
vintage button
small snap set
needle and thread
assortment of sewing pins and needles to tuck inside

how to:

1. cut out pages – using pinking shears, cut 2 pieces of felt, each 4″×7″, leaving a small tab extending 1″ extra on the short side of 1 piece (as shown), edged with scissors.

2. embellish the cover – fold the 2 pieces of felt like an 8-page book, with the tabbed piece on the outside, and the tab itself on the bottom of the layers. cut a 2½”×2″ rectangle out of the print fabric, and arrange it on the front of the book so it’s centered nicely. set your sewing machine to a tight zigzag stitch and appliqué all 4 sides of the fabric square onto the front piece of felt.

3. bind the book – sew the 2 felt rectangles down the center with a straight stitch to join the pages, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam. now hand-sew a small snap set into place on the tab and the front of the needlebook, and embellish the tab with a vintage button.

4. add the extras – fill the pages with needles, pins, and needle threaders for your next out-of-the-house sewing project!

not your grandmama’s pincushion

need a place for all your pins?  tired of the old red tomato? why not make a simple pincushion?

how to: 

get yourself some wool felt and cut out two 4” circles, one 2.5” circle, and two leaf shapes.  

sew your leaves together around edges. 

sew your smaller circle to top of a bigger circle. 

sew your bigger circles together,  leaving gap for stuffing. 

cram it full of stuffing and then cram in some more until very firmly stuffed. sew opening shut. 

sew leaf on bottom and sew button on top.  

woo hoo!

what a pinhead

ever use shrinky dinks when you were a kid?  i loved baking those things and sitting next to the oven to watch as they’d shrink and curl up.  even gave a few shrinky dinks to my honey as a gift way back in the day when we were courting…i believe i did some fairly detailed renderings of madonna, isabella rosellini, and marilyn monroe for him.  20+ years later, he’s still got them, i’ve still got him, and we and our shrinky dinks have withstood the test of time. 

why not crank up that oven and whip up some shrinky dink buttons or pinheads?  don’t try to melt the shrinky dink on top of a pinhead…it won’t work.

instead, stick a flat headed pin *through* the colored, cut out shrinky dink shapes and then put it in the oven together and voila!

instant loveliness! 

needles for hand sewing

sooner or later, most crafters will pick up a needle—whether to stitch an appliqué, embroider a design, bead or needlepoint, or mend a torn bag. using the right needle for a project makes the stitching so much easier.

first, let’s look at the five basic types of hand-sewing needles:

sharps are the needles most commonly used for hand sewing. they have a sharp point, as the name implies, and are of medium length (compared, say, to a short quilting needle or the long milliner’s needle). sharps have a rounded eye, which is usually just large enough to accommodate thread. like the other hand-sewing needles, sharps are available in sizes 1 through 10, which is determined by the diameter of the needle. size 1 is the longest and thickest, and size 10 is smallest and thinnest.

when choosing a needle size, it’s best to consider the type of fabric you’ll be using. in general, the lighter your fabric, the thinner the needle you’ll want to use with it. many craft stores stock packs of assorted sizes. if you’re unsure of the best needle, just try passing a few different-sized needles through an inconspicuous place on the fabric. which one passes through the easiest? which one leaves the smallest hole in the fabric? 

 

ball-point needles have a rounded tip, so they’re perfect for sewing on knit fabrics.

a sharp needle can easily damage knit fabric by poking though a thread and then pulling out the knit stitches. a ball point, on the other hand, will pass right through the knit.

ball points also come in sizes 5 through 10. 

 

 

 

 

embroidery needles (sometimes known as crewel needles) are very similar to sharps.

the main difference is in the eye—embroidery needles have a larger eye, so that thicker flosses and yarns can pass through.

embroidery needles also come in sizes 1 through 10.

 

 

 

 

 

 

quilting needles, which are also known as betweens, are much shorter than sharps and also have a small, rounded eye for thread. this type of needle is a bit thinner than a sharp as well.

quilting needles are great for small, detailed stitching such as quilting, of course. their thinness and small eye help them pass easily through heavyweight fabrics, like denim or tweed. this type of needle is available in sizes 1 through 10. 

 

 

 

milliner’s needles are the longest of the hand-sewing needles. they are traditionally used for hat making but are also great for basting, as you can maneuver them quickly through fabric. they’re also available in sizes 1 through 10.

there are also “specialty needles” which are used for other purposes. here are two that are commonly used by crafters:

tapestry needles have a blunt point and a big eye. they’re made this way so they can pass through needlepoint and tapestry canvases without damaging them. and that large eye will accommodate the thicker yarns used for these kinds of crafts.

chenille needles also have a large eye like tapestry needles, but they have a sharp point. this makes them ideal for crafts like ribbon embroidery, where you need to pull a thick strand through a closely woven fabric.

now that you have a decent background in needleology, you can always use the right needle for your project. many craft stores carry an assorted pack of needles, so you can build your stitching toolkit right away.

making the case for a needle case

materials:

two 6 ½” x 10 ½” rectangles of a plain medium weight fabric;
one 6 ½” x 8 ½” rectangle of a patterned feature fabric;
one 9 ½” x 5” rectangle of wool felt;
two 6 ½” strips of ribbon or trim for the exterior of the needle case:
strip of ribbon or trim for the interior (optional); and
a button (optional).

how to:

center and pin the patterned feature fabric right side up to the right side of one piece of the plain medium weight fabric (baste in place if desired).

pin the two 6 ½” strips of ribbon or trim over the tops of the raw edges of the feature fabric and sew in place.

place the piece you have created above right sides together with the remaining piece of the plain medium weight fabric and sew with a ¼” seam, leaving an opening of 2” on one of the sides.

clip the corners and turn right sides out. press. sew or hand stitch over the side where the opening was left.

(if you are attaching some additional decorative trim to the wool felt, do so at this stage in the desired position.)

lay the needle case flat with the inside of the case facing up and center the piece of wool felt in the middle. sew a line down the middle of the case through all thicknesses of fabric to attach the wool felt.

if using a decorative button, sew it on to the outside of the case to finish.  cute!

the need for needles

sewing and embroidery machine needles are available in many types – sharps, wedge (cutting) points, ball points & metallics.

a sharp point is good for most woven fabrics that won’t unravel.  sharps cut through the fibers, and deliver the thread with less push and pull on the fabric.

ball points are used with knits and other stretchy fabrics when it’s important to avoid cutting the goods by needle penetration.  the rounded points will cause the needle to slip between the fabric threads to prevent cutting the fabric and causing it to unravel.

wedge points are for leather, vinyl and other heavy and very dense materials. these needles are for fabrics which are not woven as they make a small slit rather than hole. the wrong needle on leather would cut the design out.

fortunately, needle manufacturers have also designed marvelous needles for specialty embroidery thread like metallic, glitter and other delicate exotic fibers.  specialty needles (like sullivan’s metafil, madeira’s metallic, schmetz metallica etc..) have larger coated eyes and deeper scarfs to handle the thread more easily.

don’t forget to test-stitch the design with the type of needle you’re going to use on final project.  there are always exceptions to the rules, and it’s always a good idea test the needle and other components before using them on final projecs to avoid unpleasant surprises.

size matters

Pin Length and Diameter

The length of a pin is stated in sixteenths of an inch. This means that a #16 pin is one inch long (or 16/16) while a #17 pin is 1 1/16” inches long.  Pins generally range in length from a #8 (8/16” or ½” long) to a #24 (1 ¼” long).  Longer pins should generally be used for bulky or layered fabrics, and shorter pins should generally be used for delicate fabrics.

The most common pin is called a dressmaking pin, or #17; it is considered to have a medium diameter, and is used for general garment sewing.  A pleating pin, or #16, has a smaller diameter than a dressmaking pin and is designed to be used on fine or delicate fabric.  A long pin, or #24, is used for heavyweight fabric (thick wools with lots of bulk), draperies or crafts.

Pin Points

Yep, even the point on a pin is different depending on its usage—but most pins are considered “sharps”, meaning the pin has a pointed tip. A sharp is the standard pin point, but you can also purchase ballpoint-tipped pins for knits.

Pin Tips

Always test your pin on scrap fabric before pinning into the fabric you’re using.  Some fabrics like vinyl, leather and oilcloth will have permanent holes from the pin so when pinning these types of fabric, always pin into the seam allowance.

Pins are just like needles—they will become dull, bent or broken after usage. Throw your old pins out, as a dull pin can cause a run in your fabric.

Don’t sew or serge over your pins! A pin slightly distorts the seam allowance and may lead to seams that don’t lay as flat or may be crooked. Serging over a pin will dull the blades of your serger, and your pin will be chopped neatly into two pieces!

what are you looking at, pinhead?

so many pins, so little time.  Pin heads can be flat, may have a ball at the end or be T-shaped.

 

Flat heads are the most common pin head because they are the least expensive to produce. This is a great standard pin for sewing lightweight fabric like cotton or broadcloth, but sometimes can be difficult to see.

 

 

 

Ball heads are made of either plastic or glass. While plastic heads are less expensive than glass heads, they will melt from the heat of an iron, so go for glass heads if your budget allows.  Ball heads (either plastic or glass) are one step up from the flat head, and I prefer these pins for all of my sewing because not only are they easier to see, but the head is easier to grab hold of for inserting and pulling out of the fabric.  Ball head pins are great for use on heavier or bulkier fabrics such as denim or fleece.

 

Tshaped heads are used for crafts and draperies.  Typically the pin is longer, and the larger head makes it easier to insert into and pull out of multiple layers of fabrics or heavy wools.  Strong, heavy pins great for pinning slipcover fabrics onto upholstery, sewing tough fabrics like canvs and blocking knitted items.

straight talk about straight pins

Many take this simple sewing tool for granted, and may not be aware that different types of pins are designed for different fabrics and uses.  Because I enjoy a wide variety of sewing projects, I have several types and lengths on hand depending on the fabric I’ll be using. 

Pin Construction:  Pins are made from brass, steel or stainless steel. 

Brass pins are usually nickel-plated, have very sharp points, and typically will not rust. I’m not too hot for brass pins because the nickel-plating sometimes leaves black marks on fabric that are not easy to remove, but if you’re working with dark fabric, this doesn’t pose much of a problem.  These 1-1/16″ nickel-plated brass silk pins have a finer shaft which allows them to glide through delicate fabrics without damaging. The sturdy brass construction makes them strong enough to use on thicker fabrics, too.  Again, watch out for any untoward markings on your fabrics which may be left behind the nickel-plating. 

Steel pins are the least expensive, but the steel may rust. With a bit of hunting, you can find steel pins that are nickel-plated, which helps prevent rusting.  Steel pins are stronger than brass, which is great for working with heavy wools or drapery fabric.  A magnetic pin holder comes in handy for gathering up loose steel pins quickly, but remember not to put it near an embroidery machine or other electronic device because it may damage computer chips. 

Stainless steel pins do not rust and are the strongest pins available. Their only disadvantage is they are the most expensive.  As I do not work with very heavy fabrics, I don’t have any in my arsenal.

stitch, stitch, in the ditch

needles are available in many types:  sharps, wedge (cutting) points, ball points, and metallics.

sharp point is good for most woven fabrics that won’t unravel.  sharps cut through the fibers, and deliver the thread with less push and pull on the fabric.

ball point is used with knits and other stretchy fabrics, when it’s important to avoid cutting the goods by needle penetration.  (that’s what she said!) the rounded points will cause the needle to slip between the fabric threads to prevent cutting the fabric and causing it to unravel.

wedge points are for leather, vinyl and other heavy and very dense materials. these needles are for fabrics which are not woven as they make a small slit rather than hole. the wrong needle on leather would cut the design out.

there are also marvelous needles for specialty embroidery thread like metallic, glitter and other delicate exotic fibers. specialty needles (like sullivan’s metafil, madeira’s metallic, schmetz metallica etc..) have larger coated eyes and deeper scarfs to handle the thread more easily.

always remember to test-stitch the design with the type of needle you’re going to use BEFORE STARTING YOUR PROJECT.  of course there are always exceptions to the rules, and you don’t want any nasty surprises.

an addict and her needles

choosing the right needle for your project  

most home sewing and embroidery machines use flat shank needles (the shank is rounded with one flat side), and commercial machines use round shank needles.

it is always a good idea to start with a new needle for every new embroidery project, or about every eight hours. a dull or burred needle can cause snags and puckering and otherwise mess up your fabric, so if you experience stitching problems, replace the needle.

using the wrong needle size may cause tension problems, and don’t believe what you hear about using a larger universal needle to avoid thread fraying and breakage. the larger needle may produce shitty holes in the fabric, or even cut the fabric causing gaps between the embroidery areas. nobody wants that.

to test whether your needle creates too much tension on the thread or not, cut a piece of thread about 12 inches long and thread it through the needle. hold the thread vertically and fairly taut. then, from the top, spin the needle. it should slip down the thread. if it doesn’t, you need a needle with larger eye.

selecting a suitable machine needle for your project should be based on the weight and type of fabric and the weight and type of thread you are going to use on your project. the heavier the fabric and denser the weave, the larger the needle will need to be, and the opposite.

the most commonly used needle sizes in machine embroidery (in both european & american numbering systems) are 65/9, 70/10, 75/11, 80/12, 90/14. machine embroidery needles have a slightly larger eye and groove in the shank, protecting embroidery threads from shredding or breaking (for use with rayon & polyester embroidery threads).

i’ll wax poetic about needle types another day.

on pincushions

as an avid stitcher, i’ve never understood why standard pincushions are always a simple red tomato with a strawberry dangling from it.  what’s the origin of this?  is it just because a tomato is such an easy shape to make and so the inventor just ran with it? why the strawberry pin sharpener? 

in a perfect world, i’d like to go to a stitchery store and see a whole aisle devoted to pincushions…a farmer’s market of sorts with bins and bins of pin cushions that look like fruits and vegetables.  that would be awesome.  what’s wrong with variety?  i’m sick of seeing the lowly solitary red tomato stuck on the bottom shelves of sewing aisles, just sitting there looking all pathetic and lonely.  i like options.

i’d buy a slice of watermelon and stick my pins in it.  or maybe a big round cantaloupe that you can stick pins in on the outside, then unzip it longitudinally to reveal a place to hold thread or bobbins or other secret sewing treasures.  i’d be all over that cantaloupe. 

as an homage to the time-honored tradition, i made my own tomato pincushion but rather than a typical red beefsteak tomato, i fashioned it into a green heirloom, and it has served me well over the years.  maybe one day i’ll attempt the cantaloupe.  or an eggplant.