looking for a way to add some punch to a machine-sewn project?
add a dash of color to with mettler’s multi-colored 100% cotton thread.
this variegated silk-finished thread comes in many variations, from rust ombre (shown above) to dove gray.
for big quilting endeavors or small sewing accessories, this fine thread is the perfect secret ingredient, and it’s fun to watch come off the spool, too!
lots of people ask me how to choose a sewing machine, or what specific model they should buy. i don’t tell anyone what model to buy, in the same way i wouldn’t tell them what kind of car to buy, or what flavor of saltwater taffy they should like. you have to choose one that fits YOU. don’t be scared. you’ll be ok.
first off, remember that most of the choices ahead of you are good ones. your life will not be ruined if you buy the “wrong” machine. no one will mock or scorn you for not optimizing your purchase to the utmost. remember that with sewing machines (just like other things such as digital cameras and the like), the more time you spend reading about them, the more those high-end features will seem like necessities … and so your “dream machine” will get more and more expensive (and further and further out of reach).
to buy a sewing machine, first you need to figure out whether you are an experienced machine user or not. if you have never used a sewing machine, then no, you’re not. in that case, what machine you buy is a lot less important than where you buy it. you will want to buy locally from someone who offers classes, guarantee the machine, and offer a good warranty for repairs. (the exception to this rule: if you want to buy a machine from a friend who is upgrading their machine and promises they will teach you how to use it … and you believe him or her … go ahead and do it. otherwise, buy from a local shop.)
go to your local shop (if you’re lucky enough to have one!) and tell ‘em right off you’re not buying that day, only looking. if you are a complete novice, tell them that. ask to try out some machines. better yet, if some place near you offers sewing classes, take one before even thinking about buying your own machine. you’ll get comfortable with the classroom machine and will know what you like and dislike about it, and then you’ll be able to articulate what you want in your own machine (automatic threading, a knee lift, whatever).
take notes. tell them what you sew (dresses? handbags? quilts? fabric art? someone who alters a lot of jeans needs a sturdier machine than someone who makes organza wall hangings, for instance.), ask for recommendations, try things out, write down model numbers, and tell them you’ll be back. ask if there are things that people usually ask that you’re not asking. (this is a good question for buying just about anything. you’d be surprised how many people selling things don’t answer the questions you should be asking. “most people who come in to buy a howitzer ask about the kick. this one has quite a bit of a kick … this one over here is a little softer.”)
if you’re new to sewing, you might be feeling a bit of brain fog at this point. no worries…completely normal. new sewers might want to try for a used machine from your local shop. ask about their trade-in policy. most shops will be happy (or should be happy!) to sell you something a bit simpler and then have you trade it for something fancier later, rather than sell you something so intricate you’ll never use it and never come back.
if you are an intermediate-level machine user (you’ve taken a couple of classes, made some skirts or tote bags), you probably know roughly what you like in a machine, and i recommend buying a used machine that was higher-end when it was new. something with a good straight stitch and a good zigzag and maybe a buttonhole function, but not a lot of fancy embroidery stitches (unless embroidery stitches are your reason for sewing). keep looking and don’t get locked in to the first machine you see.
again, trying things out at a local shop is a good idea. you can also do the whole craigslist/pennysaver/estate sale thing if there’s a good local repair shop you trust, because the price of a used machine plus a tuneup is cheap enough to be worth it. (try to see if someone selling you a used machine will let you bring it back to them if the repair shop says it’s not repairable. an estate sale won’t let you do this, and if the machine is under $100 probably a craigslist seller won’t either. if the machine turns on and runs it is probably tune-uppable.
if it won’t run at all, makes horrible grinding noises, or smokes … not so much. also, don’t buy something that seems to be missing a lot of parts.) if you buy this kind of machine, you’ll know when you’ve outgrown it — you’ll start wanting to make things that need special presser feet or you’ll start being picky about the quality of your topstitching. then you can upgrade.
beginning and intermediate adult machine users: do not buy machines that are in a mass-market store like walmart or target. they are usually intended for small home alterations, not serious sewing. there are exceptions, but if you’re not an experienced user you won’t know if you have found an exception. also, these model numbers change a lot so it’s hard to find good reviews online. if you’re buying a simple machine for a child, however, to teach him or her how to sew, this is the way to go.
also, don’t buy machines that are advertised as “special class machines” or “special buys”. they’re not, and they aren’t. they’re usually low-end no-name models and won’t come with classes or a good warranty.
if you are an experienced machine user, then you need to figure out your price range and then only look at machines in that price range, unless you want to suffer wow-feature syndrome. WFS is what happens when you see that the next machine up (that is $200 more) not only has automatic buttonholes, but also orders you new buttons from the internet every time you use one (for example). wow! now only a button-ordering machine will do! waaaaah, waaaaaah, i want THAT ONE!!!
if you are tempted by WFS, can you make a list of five projects you’ve ever made that special feature “x” would have helped you complete? just one doesn’t count. and a special wow-feature that requires another purchase (like extra software, etc.) needs to have ten projects to justify it or it really doesn’t count. yeah, you get the idea. save yourself the hassle and don’t look outside your price range.
once you have a firm grasp on your budget, sit down and make a list. what do you like about your current machine, and what don’t you like? i liked that my old machine was quiet, simple, and made nice stitches. i didn’t like that the bobbin was complicated to load, and that it didn’t make good buttonholes. so what i was looking for was a machine that did everything my new one does and made good automatic buttonholes and had a drop-in bobbin.
then (and this is important) set yourself a time limit. say “i’m going to research machines for [one hour, one day, one week, one month]” and then stop. if you leave it open-ended you will never buy anything. think “satisficing”. to satisfice is “to decide on and pursue a course of action that will satisfy the minimum requirements necessary to achieve a particular goal”. don’t look for a perfect machine; look for a good enough machine. (don’t forget to figure in things like back-orders and so forth; a machine that has 9 of your 10 important features may be the best option if the all-10 machine won’t get to you for two months.)
when you’ve found the good-enough option, buy it. and don’t let yourself go back and read reviews of other machines after you’ve placed your order. therein lies a certain road to madness. instead, re-read good reviews of the machine you’ve picked out and wallow in your happy choice. make plans of what you’ll sew first, second, third … clean up your sewing area for the new arrival. buy some new machine needles (unless the dealer threw in a pack for free, which they should, honestly), and pull out that pincushion. it’s time.
once you have your new machine, don’t be intimidated. get some fabric scraps and some thread, sit down and work your way through the manual. try every single thing it says your machine will do (this may take you a while). don’t put off trying something out just because you don’t think you’ll ever need it…once you see how easy something is, you might find that the need magically appears. a sewing machine is not a terribly complicated device. most dvd players are more complicated than a sewing machine! don’t stress about it. you can do it. just jump right in and push all the buttons. if something doesn’t work the way you think it should, better to know right away, too, while there’s still a chance to return it. (if you find out in five months that the blind hemming foot has a crack in it, good luck returning it then!)
and that is how you buy a sewing machine.
you get the idea. how cute is that?
materials needed:
fusible web
iron
pencil
fabric scraps
everything else you’d usually need to embroider, such as floss, a hoop, something to embroider on, scissors, etc.
preparation:
1. read the directions on the fusible web. each brand has specific directions for heat settings and length of time you need to press.
2. decide which part of the embroidery design you would like to cover with fabric. this portion of the pattern will need to be traced IN REVERSE. turn your pattern over so that you’re looking at the backside, and then draw over the portion you need with pencil. it is very important that you remember you must trace the pattern to the fusible web in reverse, or your design won’t turn out right.
how to:
1. transfer the embroidery design onto the fabric you intend to embroider.
2. cut a piece of fusible web that is only slightly larger than the piece you need
3. trace the part of the pattern you need onto the smooth side of the fusible web using pencil. be sure to trace the BACK of the pattern (see preparation, step 2.)
4. iron the fusible web to a small scrap of fabric that fits your design. you will iron the fusible web to the back of your fabric scrap, and make sure you iron with the rough side of the fusible web down. otherwise, your iron will be a sticky mess! (the rough part is the glue.)
5. cut out your fabric piece on the traced pencil line.
6. peel the backing off and place your fabric piece on your embroidery design in the appropriate spot; press it into place.
7. place your design in a hoop and embroider it just like you would any other embroidery design.
8. fusible web is almost always permanent so it’s not necessary to sew it down for stability, but it does look cute to stitch around it. running stitch? blanket stitch? anything goes!
sewing machines. begin with a beginner sewing machine like this adorable Hello Kitty machine avaliable at target. it has all the basics and looks cute, too!
fit the snip! as soon as a child is ready, get a good pair of sewing scissors with a good fit to their hand. they will have 10 times more success in cutting out patterns if they have control and a sharp pair of scissors. encourage them to keep a sheath/cover on the scissors when not in use.
create their own box of supplies. sewing notions are available in fun colors and can be customized with stickers and permanent markers. creating “ownership” encourages children to take pride in their tools.
go fabric crazy! fabric companies like alexander henry have so many hip fabrics for girls and boys. everything from flaming skulls and skateboarders to sweet vintage style kitties and mod poppy flowers. the fabric selection for kids and teens has never been stronger. go to your local fabric store and let them pick out some fat quarters for their beginner projects.
beginner fabrics. fleece is a great “cut and sew” fabric for kids because of its no fray properties. working with cotton fabric is a great way to teach pre-washing, the grain of the fabric, pulling a thread and the warp and weft of fabric.
practice. have kids practice sewing straight lines by having them sew on striped fabric.
great beginner projects: pajamas, skirts, pillows, jumper dresses, purses, and embellishing.
reference. create a stitch sampler/reference chart of stitches – this is a great way for kids to learn the different stitches on a machine and the different lengths and widths of stitches.
fashion plates! let children add details to their clothing like patches or funky trims…this is a great way to practice and teach hand stitching.
button swap. changing boring buttons to vibrantly colored and fun shaped fun ones is a great way to learn how to sew on buttons.
not just for fashion. delve into projects for the home…pillows and curtains are an easy and fun way for children to admire their work.
classes. retail fabric shops like jo-ann’s have weekend sewing classes for children; you can also check with your local yellow pages for sewing lessons.
1. if your machine suddenly starts doing strange things like embroiders half of a design on one place in the hoop, half on another, or just doesn’t want to embroider – first turn it off. completely.
2. remove the hoop, and if your embroidery arm is removable, take it off too.
3. give your machine a 10 minute rest.
4. insert the embroidery arm again, making sure it has enough space to move in all directions. turn on the machine, and try to embroider again.
1. stop embroidering at once. inspect your design. perhaps it’s too dense, or the thread got looped heavily at the bottom.
2. open your machine, take the bobbin and bobbin case out. clean that space using a small brush. you may even use a vacuum cleaner to swish out thread pieces and dust. NEVER BLOW DIRECTLY INTO YOUR BOBBIN CASE TO REMOVE THREAD/DUST! You might not see it, but the saliva that escapes from your mouth is not your machine’s friend.
3. if you haven’t oiled your machine in a while, oil it according to the manufacturer instructions. if you’re not sure whether it should be oiled or not, check the manual as well. it you need to do it, the manual will tell you.
4. if none of these tips help, stop embroidering and call your dealer for technical support.
if your design is not lining up and your outlines off, it may be because of these culprits:
1. your machine is on a surface that is not stable enough (it must be absolutely unmovable, even if you try giving it a shakedown like the incredible hulk). most sewing tables aren’t stable enough for computerized embroidery, and there really isn’t a 100% perfect solution for this (except for ordering a custom “built into the floor and wall” heavy table), so your best bet is to put your machine on a kitchen island or directly on the floor while it embroiders. it isn’t comfortable, but otherwise no matter how hard you try your designs will be a mess.
2. improper hooping – if you’ve hooped too loose or too tight, watch out. be sure you do this important step well.
3. your hoop doesn’t hold the fabric well enough, and the fabric moves slightly while you embroider. this problem is especially frequent on large hoops, and with slippery fabrics.
4. your stabilizer choice wasn’t correct. most often this happens when fabric that you select to embroider on is a little (or a lot…) stretchy. while the design is being embroidered, the fabric pulls and therefore different design parts “run away” from each other.
to overcome this problem completely, you must make stable fabric out of stretchy one. how is that possible?
select a proper weight cutaway stabilizer, and hoop it well. then spray temporary adhesive spray over the stabilizer and attach the fabric to it without stretching or deforming the fabric. because the fabric will actually be glued to stable material (the cutaway backing), it will not pull while you embroider!
if none of these tips solve the problem, the design just might not be a good one. embroider it on something very stable, like denim, to see how it behaves. if it looks ok, then just don’t embroider it on the fabric you’ve selected before. choose another fabric and remember…not every fabric type is embroidery friendly.
in case the design doesn’t line up even on perfectly stable fabric and you’re sure you’ve hooped and stabilized it well – permanently delete this troublemaking design from your collection. this happens rarely, but sometimes it does. always make sure you buy your designs from reputable digitizing companies. each design must be tested before it’s offered for sale, but be careful out there—lately everyone and their dog is into digitizing, and some sellers don’t care to test stitch their creations.
fabric puckering may be caused by poor hooping – try to “re-hoop” your fabric.
incorrect stabilizing – check out the category “stabilizers” for helpful hints on which stabilizer to use for your particular project.
some computerized machines should be adjusted with the type & weight of fabric you currently use in order to embroider properly.
the needle might be damaged (hooked) and therefore damage or just pull the fabric, causing puckers.
skipped stitches are usually caused by old needles.
be sure to switch out your needles every 6-8 hours, and you shouldn’t see this problem.
also make sure the needle is secured well, and that you’ve selected the right pressing foot.
to solve this problem, just tighten top thread tension until you see only one thread color on each side and…voila!
if only every problem were so simple, huh?
generally, when bobbin thread shows on top it means that there’s too much tension on top thread… but before rushing to reduce top thread tension, first check these two issues:
1. check if top thread unwinds and feeds up well. make sure that the spool doesn’t slide off horizontal spool pin. if it falls – it creates too high tread tension by not giving the thread to unwind properly.
2. check that the needle is good, not sticky, and allows the thread to come through it easily. it should have a large enough eye.
your machine may be not threaded correctly.
re-thread both top & bobbin thread.
your needle may be damaged, or just secured not well enough. check out the needle and adjust as needed.
your top thread tension might be too loose. to check whether the problem really is in tension, remove your hoop and inspect the reverse side of your embroidery. if your tension is well balanced, you will almost not see the top thread on reverse side. however, if you see a lot of top thread – increase top thread tension. the loops may occur just because the needle is catching on those bubbling threads.
for stitch-absorbing fabrics like towels, fleece, short fur, velvet, corduroy, jersey, and knits, always use water soluble topping film to prevent stitches from sinking into the fabric.
it’s easy…just cut a little piece of film, put it over the background fabric, then start embroidering. after your design is ready, the large pieces may be removed and all remainder dissolved in warm water.
needles may break because of all the same reasons that thread breaks. therefore, first follow all steps against thread breakage here (go on, click me!)
if after you try that and you’re still having trouble…remove your hoop, and see what happens at the bottom. you shouldn’t see any thread loops there. if you see loops – carefully remove all stitches, reverse your machine several stitches back, and embroider them again.
needles may sometimes break if the design is too dense, or too “fat”. this is especially frequent on photo-stitch designs and sometimes on not properly digitized lace. to overcome this problem, try using a thinner needle. if this doesn’t help, just avoid bulky designs.
