
dorset buttons are a very old style of button that’s handmade from embroidery floss or yarn and wrapped around a ring-shaped base.
cutest little things ever.
they look great anywhere…on a knit or crocheted sweater, on a bag, on a hat, or if you can’t part with them…stashed away in a special drawer.
you can also glue a pin-back on a dorset button and wear it as a fun accent.
best of all, they’re way easier to make than they look!

materials needed:
plastic drapery rings (shown here are size 1 3/8”)
yarn or floss
embroidery needle with a big eye and a dull tip
scissors
how to:
cut a very long piece of floss or yarn. dorset buttons are usually made with one continuous piece of floss, so you need enough to complete your whole button. i usually measure out the length of my arm three times, and that’s plenty. thread this piece on your needle.
you’ll need to capture the loose end of your floss underneath the stitching you’ll be doing in just a moment. so lay the end of your floss against your drapery ring, as shown.

now you’re going to cover this ring with blanket stitches. so, still holding that loose end in place, bring your needle up through the center of the ring.

pull that entire length of floss through, until you have just a small loop showing.

now stick your needle through that loop. pull the thread the rest of the way through, until it’s wrapped snugly around the ring. repeat this stitch over and over again, making sure that as you pull each stitch tight, it’s sitting right next to your previous stitch.
the photo below shows two important things: first, after you’ve covered about ¼” of your initial loose end in blanket stitches, you can cut the rest off and then keep stitching. second, you may notice that the ring is turned over…just a personal preference…some prefer to stitch from left to right once the loose end is covered.

keep blanket stitching until you’ve covered up the entire ring. if you’re doing it right, you should see a nice little seam developing along the edge of your ring as you work.

note that if you’re using a pearl cotton floss as shown here, it will take a while to cover up the whole ring. the process is much faster with crewel or yarn.

once your ring is completely covered, then it’s time to slide that little seam from the outside of the ring to the inside. just work your way around, moving a section at a time.

now you’re ready to make some spokes! this is the only tricky part of the process. you still have a long, long tail of floss attached to your ring. and now that you’ve rolled the seam to the inside of the ring, the end of your floss is now facing toward the inside of the ring as well.

wrap this tail of floss over the ring several times in order to form six equal spokes of floss. to begin, pull your floss across your ring as shown below, wrapping it around the back of the ring and back up to where you started.

now wrap the floss behind the ring again, but this time, you’ll wrap toward the front from a new location, 1/6 of the way around the ring from your first spoke. don’t panic when the spokes don’t line up. refer to this picture:

keep wrapping, placing each spoke at 1/6 intervals, until you have six spokes. these spokes should be wrapped very snugly around the ring and should meet in the very center of the ring on the front. (on the back, they’ll look all weird…don’t worry about that right now.)
now that you have spokes, they need to be anchored in place and the back of the ring needs to be aligned with the front. do this by making a few tight stitches around the center point of all these spokes.
here’s how. hold your ring so you’re facing the front side.

bring your needle up on one side of the center point. thin you stitch down at the opposite side of the center point and pull this tiny stitch tightly. as you pull, you’re also pulling the center point of all your spokes toward the exact center of your ring. like magic, the back will begin to align with the spokes in the front.

good deal! now for the easy part…covering those spokes with a series of backstitches. choose a spoke to begin stitching on. bring your needle up from the back of the ring to the front, and bring it up just to the left of this spoke. now take your needle back down through the ring, this time just to the right of the spoke. you’ll end up with a tiny little stitch that wraps over the top of the spoke.

move forward to the next spoke, and do the same stitch. the photo above shows the path of your needle. keep working in this manner, taking one backstitch around each spoke and moving around and around the wheel. within a few rows, you’ll see a little pattern emerging.
when you’ve filled in the whole center of the button with stitching, it’s time to tie off your thread. by this time, you’ll have stitched your way out to the edge of your button. just pass the needle under about ¼” of the yarn you blanket stitched around the ring initially, then cut the loose end close to the button.

hint: when making these with pearl cotton, it might be helpful to switch to a smaller needle for this last step. if you’re using a thicker yarn, your embroidery needle will slide easily under the blanket stitches…no problemo.
extra credit:
now that you’ve got the basic technique down, you can start playing with variations! for example:
do your backstitching in a different color than your ring and spokes.
wrap your wring with two different colors of floss at the same time for a mottled effect. sounds too complicated? try using variegated thread or yarn!
make some stitches around the ring in a contrasting color.
sew beads onto your finished button.
turn your button over so the backstitching looks more like basketweave.