the need for needles

sewing and embroidery machine needles are available in many types – sharps, wedge (cutting) points, ball points & metallics.

a sharp point is good for most woven fabrics that won’t unravel.  sharps cut through the fibers, and deliver the thread with less push and pull on the fabric.

ball points are used with knits and other stretchy fabrics when it’s important to avoid cutting the goods by needle penetration.  the rounded points will cause the needle to slip between the fabric threads to prevent cutting the fabric and causing it to unravel.

wedge points are for leather, vinyl and other heavy and very dense materials. these needles are for fabrics which are not woven as they make a small slit rather than hole. the wrong needle on leather would cut the design out.

fortunately, needle manufacturers have also designed marvelous needles for specialty embroidery thread like metallic, glitter and other delicate exotic fibers.  specialty needles (like sullivan’s metafil, madeira’s metallic, schmetz metallica etc..) have larger coated eyes and deeper scarfs to handle the thread more easily.

don’t forget to test-stitch the design with the type of needle you’re going to use on final project.  there are always exceptions to the rules, and it’s always a good idea test the needle and other components before using them on final projecs to avoid unpleasant surprises.

untie told

i feel it

i chase it

i despise it

i control it

i hide it

i kill it

i hold it

i bury it

but

it doesn’t die

it doesn’t go away

size matters

Pin Length and Diameter

The length of a pin is stated in sixteenths of an inch. This means that a #16 pin is one inch long (or 16/16) while a #17 pin is 1 1/16” inches long.  Pins generally range in length from a #8 (8/16” or ½” long) to a #24 (1 ¼” long).  Longer pins should generally be used for bulky or layered fabrics, and shorter pins should generally be used for delicate fabrics.

The most common pin is called a dressmaking pin, or #17; it is considered to have a medium diameter, and is used for general garment sewing.  A pleating pin, or #16, has a smaller diameter than a dressmaking pin and is designed to be used on fine or delicate fabric.  A long pin, or #24, is used for heavyweight fabric (thick wools with lots of bulk), draperies or crafts.

Pin Points

Yep, even the point on a pin is different depending on its usage—but most pins are considered “sharps”, meaning the pin has a pointed tip. A sharp is the standard pin point, but you can also purchase ballpoint-tipped pins for knits.

Pin Tips

Always test your pin on scrap fabric before pinning into the fabric you’re using.  Some fabrics like vinyl, leather and oilcloth will have permanent holes from the pin so when pinning these types of fabric, always pin into the seam allowance.

Pins are just like needles—they will become dull, bent or broken after usage. Throw your old pins out, as a dull pin can cause a run in your fabric.

Don’t sew or serge over your pins! A pin slightly distorts the seam allowance and may lead to seams that don’t lay as flat or may be crooked. Serging over a pin will dull the blades of your serger, and your pin will be chopped neatly into two pieces!

the polymer clay cookbook

the polymer clay cookbook celebrates favorite foods with 20 tiny, deliciously realistic food charms to make from polymer clay and fashion into unique jewelry. styled as a cookbook for the beginning miniaturist “chef,” the introductory chapters discuss the “basic ingredients” and techniques used for polymer clay and jewelry making. the remainder of the book offers 20 “recipes” grouped by category: fruits, breakfast, lunch and dinner, sweets and snacks, and holiday foods. 

each recipe has a list of “ingredients,” step-by-step directions with photographs, and suggested variations. each piece is presented as a particular finished jewelry item, such as a necklace, but readers are encouraged to adapt the piece into any type of jewelry they choose.  hell, i won’t be making jewelry with them.  how about some dollhouse miniatures? heck yeah! 

each chapter also includes one of the authors’ own cherished recipes for real food, including sunday morning cinnamon rolls, grandma’s pasta sauce, decadent raspberry chocolate cupcakes, and mom’s holiday sugar cookies. throughout the book, the authors, jessica and susan partain, share their enthusiasm for family, sisterhood, and the tradition and feelings surrounding our favorite foods. 

a must have for anyone who already loves to or wants to work with polymer clay.

what are you looking at, pinhead?

so many pins, so little time.  Pin heads can be flat, may have a ball at the end or be T-shaped.

 

Flat heads are the most common pin head because they are the least expensive to produce. This is a great standard pin for sewing lightweight fabric like cotton or broadcloth, but sometimes can be difficult to see.

 

 

 

Ball heads are made of either plastic or glass. While plastic heads are less expensive than glass heads, they will melt from the heat of an iron, so go for glass heads if your budget allows.  Ball heads (either plastic or glass) are one step up from the flat head, and I prefer these pins for all of my sewing because not only are they easier to see, but the head is easier to grab hold of for inserting and pulling out of the fabric.  Ball head pins are great for use on heavier or bulkier fabrics such as denim or fleece.

 

Tshaped heads are used for crafts and draperies.  Typically the pin is longer, and the larger head makes it easier to insert into and pull out of multiple layers of fabrics or heavy wools.  Strong, heavy pins great for pinning slipcover fabrics onto upholstery, sewing tough fabrics like canvs and blocking knitted items.

straight talk about straight pins

Many take this simple sewing tool for granted, and may not be aware that different types of pins are designed for different fabrics and uses.  Because I enjoy a wide variety of sewing projects, I have several types and lengths on hand depending on the fabric I’ll be using. 

Pin Construction:  Pins are made from brass, steel or stainless steel. 

Brass pins are usually nickel-plated, have very sharp points, and typically will not rust. I’m not too hot for brass pins because the nickel-plating sometimes leaves black marks on fabric that are not easy to remove, but if you’re working with dark fabric, this doesn’t pose much of a problem.  These 1-1/16″ nickel-plated brass silk pins have a finer shaft which allows them to glide through delicate fabrics without damaging. The sturdy brass construction makes them strong enough to use on thicker fabrics, too.  Again, watch out for any untoward markings on your fabrics which may be left behind the nickel-plating. 

Steel pins are the least expensive, but the steel may rust. With a bit of hunting, you can find steel pins that are nickel-plated, which helps prevent rusting.  Steel pins are stronger than brass, which is great for working with heavy wools or drapery fabric.  A magnetic pin holder comes in handy for gathering up loose steel pins quickly, but remember not to put it near an embroidery machine or other electronic device because it may damage computer chips. 

Stainless steel pins do not rust and are the strongest pins available. Their only disadvantage is they are the most expensive.  As I do not work with very heavy fabrics, I don’t have any in my arsenal.